Wire + Metal: 30 Easy Metalsmithing Designs
Denise Peck, Jane Dickerson
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
Easy-to-do techniques at the comfort of your kitchen table!
Authors Denise Peck and Jane Dickerson introduce simple wire- and metalworking techniques that have big impact. Working with precut metal blanks and thin gauge sheet, as well as with inexpensive and readily available tools, you can produce results similar to much more complex metalsmithing techniques.
Explore lashing, stitching, simple weaving, coils, spirals, twisted wire, and incorporating beads with wire. You'll be exposed to metal pieces being hole-punched, dapped, hammered, textured, colorized, and patinated. This book features thirty step-by-step projects that require only basic jewelry-making skills, but will result in stunning contemporary jewelry. Wire + Metal covers a wide range of styles that will appeal to beginner to advanced jewelry makers.
are working with your metal, so you may need to periodically anneal it so you can manipulate it easily. Also, you usually want your finished piece to be work-hardened so that it holds its shape. Dead-soft metal When metal is referred to as dead-soft, it is fully annealed when you receive it. It’s the easiest to work with and easiest on your tools, such as disc cutters and hole punches. It’s also quite easy to texture, taking impressions nicely from hammers and punches. Half-hard metal
wrap the wire twice around the head pin, above the bead. Wrap the wire in a circle around the bead twice. Then, wrap the head pin five more times, above the bead, wrapping over the existing wraps. Trim the wire on the back and pinch in the end with chain-nose pliers. 14. Wrap the 2" (5 cm) tail at the bottom of the bead over the first wraps a few times, completing a double wrap on the bottom of the bead as well. Trim the excess wire and pinch in the end. 15. With one earring facing you, grasp
center of a wire frame, push about 3" (7.5 cm) of a 2’ (61 cm) piece of 24-gauge wire through the top right hole, passing it from the front to the back. The longer end on the front side of the work will be called the working wire; the short end on the back of the work is called the tail wire. Wrap the working wire around the edge of the frame and up through the top right hole. Do the same thing again, through the same hole so there are 2 stitches holding the plate onto the corner. Guide the
punch from marring the metal, place a Pro-Polish pad or a scrap piece of thin leather between the tool and the metal before punching. To use hole-punch pliers 1. Mark a dot with your permanent marker at the spot where you want the hole. 2. Using the hole-punch pliers like a paper punch, squeeze the handle and punch out the hole (Figure 1). Figure 1 Screw-down hole punch This tool has two drill punches that you manually twist down to create a hole. The drill on one side makes a 1⁄16" (2 mm)
Remove the mandrel. Use flush cutters to cut through all the rings at the same spot along the length of the coil, snipping one or two at a time (Figure 2). They will fall away and each ring will be slightly open. One side of the ring will be flush-cut, and the other side will have a beveled edge. Flush-cut the beveled side so the ring will close properly. Figure 2 3. Tumble to work-harden or hammer with the rawhide hammer and bench block. The jump rings you make will have the inner diameter