The New Book of Middle Eastern Food
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
In this updated and greatly enlarged edition of her Book of Middle Eastern Food, Claudia Roden re-creates a classic. The book was originally published here in 1972 and was hailed by James Beard as "a landmark in the field of cookery"; this new version represents the accumulation of the author's thirty years of further extensive travel throughout the ever-changing landscape of the Middle East, gathering recipes and stories.
Now Ms. Roden gives us more than 800 recipes, including the aromatic variations that accent a dish and define the country of origin: fried garlic and cumin and coriander from Egypt, cinnamon and allspice from Turkey, sumac and tamarind from Syria and Lebanon, pomegranate syrup from Iran, preserved lemon and harissa from North Africa. She has worked out simpler approaches to traditional dishes, using healthier ingredients and time-saving methods without ever sacrificing any of the extraordinary flavor, freshness, and texture that distinguish the cooking of this part of the world.
Throughout these pages she draws on all four of the region's major cooking styles:
- The refined haute cuisine of Iran, based on rice exquisitely prepared and embellished with a range of meats, vegetables, fruits, and nuts
- Arab cooking from Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan--at its finest today, and a good source for vegetable and bulgur wheat dishes
- The legendary Turkish cuisine, with its kebabs, wheat and rice dishes, yogurt salads, savory pies, and syrupy pastries
- North African cooking, particularly the splendid fare of Morocco, with its heady mix of hot and sweet, orchestrated to perfection in its couscous dishes and tagines
From the tantalizing mezze--those succulent bites of filled fillo crescents and cigars, chopped salads, and stuffed morsels, as well as tahina, chickpeas, and eggplant in their many guises--to the skewered meats and savory stews and hearty grain and vegetable dishes, here is a rich array of the cooking that Americans embrace today. No longer considered exotic--all the essential ingredients are now available in supermarkets, and the more rare can be obtained through mail order sources (readily available on the Internet)--the foods of the Middle East are a boon to the home cook looking for healthy, inexpensive, flavorful, and wonderfully satisfying dishes, both for everyday eating and for special occasions.
dining-room, to be taken to the bacis' table. Food was so abundant that when we had nished the dishes were still more than half-full. The sta had their meals, cooked specially for them, in the servants' hall in the basement. For each meal the cooks prepared food for twenty- ve at the master's table and for forty indoor and outdoor servants; these had only ve courses. They began with either soup, eggs, or a pastry stu ed with cheese, had a meat course, a vegetable dish served separately, the
sprigs of flat-leaf parsley and a dribble of extra-virgin olive oil Drain the chickpeas and simmer in fresh cold water for I½ hours, or until really soft, adding salt to taste towards the end. Cool a little, extract a few chickpeas to use as garnish, and put the rest through the food processor or blender with the rest of the ingredients and enough of the cooking water to achieve a light cream. You must add the avorings gradually and taste often. It should be distinctly sharp. Use the reserved
hot oil about h inch deep, turning them over once, until a dark-golden color. Serve the balls hot or cold, with a few drops of lemon juice squeezed over them if you like. Çerkez Tavugu Circassian Chicken Serves 8 • In Turkey and Egypt during the period of the Ottoman Empire, the women in the harems, the wives and concubines of the Sultans and aristocracy, were the widows and daughters captured at war. The Circassians among them were known for their beauty and their culinary skills. This classic
pie. Brush a large pie or cake pan, about 13 inches in diameter and 1½—2 inches deep, with melted butter or oil. Fit a sheet of llo in the dish so that the ends fold well up the side and overlap the edges. If this is not possible, use overlapping sheets of llo. Lay 6 sheets of pastry on top of each other, brushing melted butter or oil evenly between each layer. Spread the pieces of boned pigeon or chicken neatly over the pastry and cover with the egg mixture. Lay another 4 sheets of llo on top,
rather musty taste is obtained by Iranians and Iraqis with a dried variety, a subdued one by Moroccans with lemons preserved in salt. The faint scent of rose and orange- blossom water is evident in sweet dishes, which are sometimes made with honey instead of sugar. The Orient is so partial to the sensual pleasures of perfumes and aromatics that the widest possible variety of herbs, spices, woods, and essences are used in the kitchen. Taste and pleasure are not the only considerations, for good