The Mile End Cookbook: Redefining Jewish Comfort Food from Hash to Hamantaschen
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
WHEN NOAH AND RAE BERNAMOFF OPENED MILE END, their tiny Brooklyn restaurant, they had a mission: to share the classic Jewish comfort food of their childhood.
Using their grandmothers’ recipes as a starting point, Noah and Rae updated traditional dishes and elevated them with fresh ingredients and from-scratch cooking techniques. The Mile End Cookbook celebrates the craft of new Jewish cooking with more than 100 soul-satisfying recipes and gorgeous photographs. Throughout, the Bernamoffs share warm memories of cooking with their families and the traditions and holidays that inspire recipes like blintzes with seasonal fruit compote; chicken salad whose secret ingredient is fresh gribenes; veal schnitzel kicked up with pickled green tomatoes and preserved lemons; tsimis that’s never mushy; and cinnamon buns made with challah dough. Noah and Rae also celebrate homemade delicatessen staples and share their recipes and methods for pickling, preserving, and smoking just about anything.
For every occasion, mood, and meal, these are recipes that any home cook can make, including:
SMOKED AND CURED MEAT AND FISH: brisket, salami, turkey, lamb bacon, lox, mackerel
PICKLES, GARNISHES, FILLINGS, AND CONDIMENTS: sour pickles, pickled fennel, horseradish cream, chicken conﬁt, sauerkraut, and soup mandel
SUMPTUOUS SWEETS AND BREADS: rugelach, jelly-ﬁlled doughnuts, ﬂourless chocolate cake, honey cake, cheesecake, challah, rye
ALL THE CLASSICS: the ultimate chicken soup, geﬁlte ﬁsh, corned beef sandwich, latkes, knishes
With tips and lore from Jewish and culinary mavens, such as Joan Nathan and Niki Russ Federman of Russ & Daughters, plus holiday menus, Jewish cooking has never been so inspiring.
the vegetable or fruit is poor quality or past its prime, pickling isn’t going to make it any better. You’ve got to use the absolute freshest, best-quality produce. Talking to a farmer will help you a lot in terms of navigating what vegetables and fruits are at their peak at what times of year. Also, you want to find a vendor who’s selling produce that’s been picked very recently, twenty-four to thirty-six hours before it gets to market—that usually means a local farmer. 4. They’re the spice of
MAKES 1½ TO 2 CUPS GIZZARD CONFIT Noah: So many people just throw away that little packet of gizzards that comes with a whole chicken. What a shame! The gizzards have such a rich, satisfying flavor, especially when preserved in fat in a confit. We call for gizzards confit in the Kasha recipe, but they also taste great subbed in for the chicken confit in the Spring Chicken. � pound chicken gizzards 1 garlic clove, peeled 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt � teaspoon freshly ground black
onion soup to almost any meat braise: brisket, pot roast, short ribs, whatever. One of the reasons it’s so rich is that we use plenty of meat, and not just bones, to make it. As our own Michael Stokes told me once, “If you only use bones, you get a beef stock that tastes like bones.” Mike also throws in a calf’s foot, which is rich in collagen and gives even more depth to the broth. At the bottom of the recipe you’ll find instructions for turning the stock into beef jus. 3 pounds beef stew meat,
CRUST: 2 cups crushed graham crackers (about 12 crackers) 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt � cup sugar � cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted FOR THE FILLING: 1¼ pounds cream cheese, at room temperature � cup sour cream � cup sugar 1½ teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt 3 large eggs 1 large egg yolk Juice of � lemon 1 tablespoon vanilla extract MAKE THE CRUST: Mix the graham-cracker crumbs, salt, sugar, and butter in a large bowl until the ingredients are thoroughly
Jewish deli using the do-it-yourself, nose-to-tail methods that had become the calling card of young urban chefs in recent years. It’d be tempting to say that this was revolutionary. It wasn’t. In fact, it was devolutionary. Really, what Noah was proposing was a return to the fold for Yiddish cooking, which had strayed far from its made-from-scratch roots, nearly taking the deli down with it. After more than a century in existence, as Noah had pointed out in his e-mail—and as I’d been preaching