Stitch 'n Bitch Superstar Knitting: Go Beyond the Basics
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
Stitch 'n Bitch Superstar Knitting is the only knitter's handbook to teach the full array of advanced knitting techniques and skills, such as double-knitting, knitting lace, complicated color work, beading, and more. Writing with the clarity that makes her such an effective teacher, and the attitude that got her dubbed "knitting superstar" (San Francisco Chronicle), Stoller explains how to "knit by the numbers;" get creative with stripes; embellish with crochet, beading, and I-cords; how to make cable patterns; and how to use color forms. There's also a whole section on DIY―which gives a tutorial on creating your own knitting patterns.
And then the brilliant icing on the cake―41 cool, funky, and fabulous patterns from Debbie and the Stitch 'n Bitch community: a fluttery Rococco Shawl, Cap Sleeve Lattice Sweater, Jackie-O sequined cardigan, Empire Strikes Back dress, the adorable Button It children's sweater with changeable animal patches. Plus sexy stockings, stylish handbags, blankets, scarves, and more, all photographed in full-color.
tighten the last stitch before the color change by giving your yarn a good tug after completing the stitch. You also want to tighten the first stitch of your new color, but do it like so: Knit the first stitch in the normal way, linking it with the previous stitch of the old color. Then, on the next stitch in that color, insert your needle as if to knit (or purl) but don’t wrap the yarn yet. Instead, tug on the yarn to tighten up the previous stitch. Then wrap the yarn and complete this stitch.
CROCHET HOOK Let’s say you want your bead to hang with its hole oriented vertically—up and down. By hanging beads individually on stitches as you need them, and basically pulling the entire stitch through the bead so that the stitch is wearing the bead around its neck like a necklace, you can do that. And placing beads this way also doesn’t require that you string ’em all up in advance. But since a loop of yarn is obviously too thick to push through a hole in a bead, you’ll need a little helper
drape and feel of your fabric. And for design swatches, you don’t have to follow any rules. Later on, once you’ve determined your ideal stitch pattern, yarn choice, and needle size, you can make the master swatch from which you’ll get those all-important stitch and row gauge counts. But for now, you’re just exploring. But where to start? If you’re looking to do simple stockinette, you might want to begin with the needle size suggested on the yarn ball band. Cast on enough stitches to make a
half, and we’ll get the 7" number of increase(33rows we need to have: (36 sts) sts) Here, that’s 60 ÷ 2, or 30 increase rows. We want to space those 30 increase rows evenly over the 108 rows we have 3" available. If we just divide 108 by 30, we get 3.6. (18 can’t sts) place (42 sts) 10" Obviously, we our increases every 3.6 rows. We also can’t just round that down, willy-nilly, and increase every 3 rows, either, because we need to increase 23¼" 30 times, and 30 × 3 = 90, which is less than the
to make a swatch with your edging stitch to gauge the number of stitches per inch. Then multiply the length of your sweater front (which you know from your schematic, or you can simply measure the completed front) by the band stitch gauge and pick up exactly that number of stitches, evenly, from the front band. Another method is to knit the front band separately, then sew it on. The band usually goes from the bottom of the sweater up to the neckline. When the neck stitches are picked up later,