SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine
Shelley Lindgren, Matthew Accarrino, Kate Leahy
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
A cookbook and wine guide celebrating the regional traditions and exciting innovations of modern Italian cooking, from San Francisco's SPQR restaurant.
The Roman Empire was famous for its network of roads. By following the path of these thoroughfares, Shelley Lindgren, wine director and co-owner of the acclaimed San Francisco restaurants A16 and SPQR, and executive chef of SPQR, Matthew Accarrino, explore Central and Northern Italy’s local cuisines and artisanal wines.
Throughout each of the eight featured regions, Accarrino offers not only a modern version of Italian cooking, but also his own take on these constantly evolving regional specialties. Recipes like Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise and Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta are elevated and thoughtful, reflecting Accarrino’s extensive knowledge of traditional Italian food, but also his focus on precision and technique. In addition to recipes, Accarrino elucidates basic kitchen skills like small animal butchery and pasta making, as well as newer techniques like sous vide—all of which are prodigiously illustrated with step-by-step photos.
Shelley Lindgren’s uniquely informed essays on the wines and winemakers of each region reveal the most interesting Italian wines, highlighting overlooked and little-known grapes and producers—and explaining how each reflects the region’s unique history, cultural influences, climate, and terrain. Lindgren, one of the foremost authorities on Italian wine, shares her deep and unparalleled knowledge of Italian wine and winemakers through producer profiles, wine recommendations, and personal observations, making this a necessary addition to any wine-lover’s library.
Brimming with both discovery and tradition, SPQR delivers the best of modern Italian food rooted in the regions, flavors, and history of Italy.
soon spread beyond North Beach, running grocery stores and farms farther afield. Historians often credit the origins of cioppino, San Francisco’s classic tomato-based seafood stew served on New Year’s Eve, to Genoa’s similar ciuppin. But while Genovese traditions have been part of San Francisco’s Italian identity for more than a century, finding Ligurian wine in San Francisco (or anywhere outside of Liguria, for that matter) has rarely been easy. There are two good reasons for the wines’
Durin make white wines of incredible complexity, with strong mineral notes and great verve all while emitting delicate stone fruit. The grape can also be lively and crisp in the hands of other producers. It’s believed that golden, speckled Pigato came from Greece; it is genetically related to Vermentino and Favorita vines. Pigato wines with stone fruit aromatics and a lighter, aperitivo are perfect for Liguria’s seafood, fresh green herbs like basil, olive oil, ceci bean, and pasta diet.
building a menu around spring lamb not only gives me a reason to celebrate the season but also allows me to use a full array of cooking techniques, both classic and new. Starting in February, when spring lambs become available from Don Watson’s Napa Valley Lamb Company, I buy two each week. Obtaining whole animals directly from the source guarantees quality while giving us the flexibility to butcher the meat in our own way. Yet the greatest value I find in preparing spring lamb is in how it
to ensure the quality and elevate the stature of the country’s viticulture industry, the Italian Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry put together a list of rules that classified the grapes, growing locations, and aging requirements of established wines. The broadest category in the classification system, with the fewest regulations, is Vino da Tavola (table wine). It is followed by Indicazione Geografica Tipica, which indicates wines “typical of the geographic growing area.” But the wines most
grams • 1½ tablespoons crème fraîche 100 grams • 2 eggs 20 grams • 1 egg yolk 13 grams • 2 teaspoons honey 3 grams • ¾ teaspoon kosher salt 85 grams • ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 2 grams • ½ teaspoon baking powder 1 gram • ¼ teaspoon baking soda 1 gram • ¼ teaspoon curry powder a pinch of cayenne blended oil for frying 280 grams • 1 cup pure maple syrup 30 grams • ⅛ cup sugar 1 gram • ¼ teaspoon curry powder 1 gram • ¼ teaspoon fennel pollen 1 gram • ¼ teaspoon ground