Pattern Drafting, Pattern Grading, Garment Making and Garment Fitting (3rd Edition)
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Originally published in 1939, this book contains practical knowledge on the science of tailoring and sewing by making it attractive and accessible to all minds desirous of learning it.
to D. S is center of C to D. Make right angle lines from dots C, S, D, E, F, G. At the in- tersection of the armscye line mark T and S. M to I is V2 inch. Draw a line DD to I and I to H. There are many jackets made of striped ma- terial on which the stripes do not appear in good taste, to avoid this, proceed as C to 2 is plus % inch. Draw lines 13A to 17 and 13A TO DRAFT THE FITTED COAT To draft the back: 0utline the regular plain coat back as de- scribed on pages 94, 95, letters B,
to 22 is 21/2 inches. Draw curved line 21B to 22. 17 to 23 is 2 inches. Draw curved line 0 to 23. This completes the front part of the sleeve. Place the portion traced from the back part of 2 to W (both ways) is % inch. This % inch is for a small dart 11/2 inches long. The pattern will now be outlined as: C to 22 to 21B to 20B to 0 to 23 to W to 2 to W to 23 to 0 to 20B to 21B to 22 to CC. *Allow a % inch seam on the sleeve around the curve from 21B to 21B. Allow % inch seams
the Gurney curve chart. 34—If any little love of mine. 36—Pattern drafting. 36—Drafting the dress back. 36—Drafting the two-piece dress back. 38—Drafting the dress front. 38—Drafting the two-piece dress front. 40—Adapting" the normal size standard pat- terns to individual requirements applic- able to all makes of patterns. 42—Fitting the round shouldered individual. wrist. TABLE OF CONTENTS (Continued) Page 77—Adapting the dress pattern for woolen garments. 77—There is great
Figure 9. Cut the pattern from the bottom of the sleeve to the sleeve cap as G through F, H through E, X through A, I through C, and J through D. 0n another sheet of paper draw a line as 3 to B. Place line A to B of the sleeve pattern on TO DRAFT THE BALLOON SLEEVE APPLICABLE TO COATS AND DRESSES The "balloon" effect may be just above the wrist on a coat and half way between the elbow and the armscye for the dress. Also for a dress it may be located just over the elbow, thus having
the fancy bell coat sleeve that is large at the elbow and small at the wrist. Use the desired size coat sleeve pattern and proceed with the sleeve in the same method as de- scribed for the dress bell sleeve in Figure 11. Cut out the pattern, allow % inch for all seams, cut the sleeve of muslin, baste it in the coat, and try it on, this will enable you to locate the seam indicated by the letter Q Figure 13, any TO DRAFT THE BISHOP SLEEVE The Bishop sleeve may be made from the two-piece